An Anniversary in Decorah

"You look fine, fine, fine

Put your feet up next to mine

We can watch that water line get higher and higher

Say, say, say

Ain't it been some kind of day

You and me been catching on like a wildfire"

On Sunday, Beau and I celebrated our 12th anniversary.  And it was unlike any we've celebrated before.  We woke up snuggled up under the softest woolshire blankets in a big king sized bed with a cool Sunday breeze keeping us deep under the sheets.  The sounds of the sturdy oaks rustling in the breeze above us, and 160 lambs pasturing on a bluff about 100 feet behind us could be heard from inside our cozy tent, and everything felt alive, and at peace.  It was our last morning "glamping" at the beautiful Luna Valley Farm in Decorah, Iowa, and we were filled up on all the good things that come from this little pocket of our state we have developed a big love for.  

There's just something about Decorah.  It's less than two hours away from home, but feels like we've entered a new world as soon as the bluffs get higher and the valleys get deeper.  Part of the Driftless, a section of four states that was never flattened by glaciers, Decorach has maintained a rugged, unique topography that is beautiful to look at and full of adventure to explore.  This area has attracted an eclectic mix of people with great ideas to invest in the local communities and create experiences that show off the beauty and simplicity of the Driftless.  And Tom and Maren of Luna Valley Farm a perfect example of what makes this area unique and special.  

    
Tom grew up in Decorah, and owns over 100 acres of beautiful land in the heart of the Driftless.  His property spans rolling green hills and deep valleys, crystal clear trout streams that flow into the calm waters of the Upper Iowa River, big oak trees, and thick green pastures for lots of animals to graze.  They raise sheep, pigs and dairy cows, rent out land to a beekeeper who makes honey, and grow organic corn and vegetables in the summer months.  And they make a lot pizzas on the weekends!  It was Maren's idea to share their place with others by turning one of their big red barns into a brick oven pizza barn, and they sell nearly 200 locally sourced, farm-to-table pizzas (and really great beer and cider) every Friday night.  We first discovered Luna Valley Farm on our fall cabin adventure last October, and knew we'd be back again.  But after Aram and Katy asked if we'd be interested in a weekend in Decorah with them, a whole new adventure began to brew.  A glamping adventure. 

"Glamping is where stunning nature meets modern luxury. Experiential travel is an authentic way to connect with nature.  By pushing themselves out of their comfort zones, experiential travelers experience a shift in perspective that improves the way they connect with the world. This transformational style of travel will enrich a person’s life and, ultimately, leave an impression that lasts much longer than the journey itself." (

There was a beautiful old girl scout camp in Decorah a few years ago, and after hearing it was closing up, Tom asked Maren if she'd be interested in checking out their sale, specifically their big canvas tents.  They purchased a few and decided to start a new endeavor for couples to stay and "glamp" at Luna Valley Farm on the weekends.  He built big platforms to elevate the tent, private decks for each, and outfitted them with rough sawn hardwood floors, a king bed with luxurious linens, and warmly lit table lamps and lanterns to set a cozy mood at night.  They renovated two bathhouses in their barn, complete with a subway tiled shower for two, eco-friendly bath products, and fluffy white towels, and have a lower valley area set up with a fire pit and wood benches.  They serve pour-over coffee in the morning at the barn, beers in the afternoons, and truly create a one-of-a-kind experience that gives you a farm away from home to step back in time yet feel cared for and spoiled at the same time.

We arrived Friday just as the pizzas were starting and were quickly immersed in an experience that has clearly become a favorite in the local community.  People gathered in groups on blankets in the grass, lined the big wood picnic tables by the barn, or walked at a distance with beers in hand and the hot summer sun on their backs.  Kids rolled down grassy hills and chugged local Wisconsin root beer, and proud papas carried big white pizza boxes to their hungry families, eyes lit up as they revealed the works of art from inside.  I love that everything about Luna Valley Farm is simple.  There are no plates, cutlery, or tablecloths.  Pizza is shared straight out of the box, yet the flavors and attention to detail is creative and inspiring.  We ordered three pizzas for the four of us, loved the Pig and Fig with it's mildly hot peppers and sweet figs, but our favorite had to be the Bees Knees and Cheese with its sweet ricotta, farm honey drizzle, and pretty edible flowers.  The boys enjoyed the local beers on tap, and Katy and I tried every seasonal flavor from Jefferson County Cider.  And the oak cherry is still a hands-down favorite.         

The best part this time around was that we didn't have to get in a car and drive away!  Just as the sun began to set over their beautiful farm, the crowd thinned and the four of us retreated just up the hill to our campsite.  Maren had welcomed our stay with a sweet card and a jar of homemade honey from the farm, and given us all we needed for a campfire under the stars.  We met Noche, the sheep herding Border Collie, who equally loves glampers and fetch, and drank wine around the fire before bed.

After a really good night's sleep and really good local coffee, we had a whole day to explore Decorah, sans kids!  Other than floating and camping with Beau on my 21st birthday, and a weekend trout fishing boys trip Aram and Beau took a couple years ago, we had never had an adults-only Decorah trip.  We were planning to kayak, but after finding out most local renters were closed due to high and fast river waters, we decided to stay off the water and explore what else this little place had to offer.     

We started with breakfast burritos and coffee at Java Johns, purchased a strawberry angel food cake at the farmer's market, then did a little shopping downtown before stopping at the co-op to grab the makings for a perfect picnic lunch.  Then we hiked the Trout Run Trail, stopped on a bluff for our own little wine and cheese picnic, and ended our afternoon at the Sugarbowl for delicious ice cream and Pulpit Rock for afternoon beers on the patio.  

Saturday afternoon was for relaxing at Luna Valley, for naps with the canvas flaps open to let the breeze in, books and cold cider on the porch, and walks around the property with Noche to see the baby lambs.  Then we cleaned up and headed back to town for a date night, with a wonderful meal and drinks at La Rana Bistro followed by good wine and twenty questions at the Courtyard and Cellar.  We ended the night under the stars and around the campfire at Luna, wanting to take full advantage of our last night at this treasure of a place.  

We told Maren we were leaving Sunday with either her dog OR a contract for five acres of their land.  And if she didn't agree to it, we'd hold her dog ransom in the meantime. ;)  

Sunday morning - our twelfth anniversary.  Not a bad place to wake up together. 

Twelve.  I was a young 22 year old girl when I married him and while I knew with every fiber in me that I'd spend my life with him, 12 years in and I sometimes feel like I'm just getting started loving him the way I promised to in those vows that day.  This weekend, we celebrated "for better" with a canvas tent for two in the woods, early morning coffee and hikes along crystal clear trout streams, and late night talks and toasts with dear friends around a campfire.  We had fun, felt alive, and very much in love.  But in between our weekend were two hospital visits, with tears, fear, and uncertainty as we walk with Beau's dad through some complex health struggles.  And while we've been blessed the past 12 years with many "for betters", it's the "for worse" moments where I can see God's design for marriage in its truest, rawest form.  Whether it's our own backyard with the little people we created, a canvas tent in the middle of the woods, or holding your hand bedside in a critical care unit at a hospital, my favorite place to be is always right by your side.  Getting to love you and be your wife is the greatest role I've ever had.  For better, for worse, for always.